Common Questions

Is knob-and-tube wiring safe, and does it have to be replaced?

Short answer

Knob-and-tube does not have to be removed if it hasn't been modified, hasn't been added to, and isn't degraded by water or heat. There is no code requiring removal, and new Romex and existing knob-and-tube can coexist. The real driver is insurance, not code: some carriers won't write a policy on a house with it, and others will. Aaron's own position is that if it were his house, he'd replace it.

What it is and how to recognize it

Knob-and-tube is a two-wire wiring method with no equipment ground. The hot and neutral run as separate individual conductors, held away from framing by white ceramic knobs and passed through joists and studs inside ceramic tubes. The air gap around each conductor is part of the design: it's how the system stays cool.

The easiest place to find it is an unfinished basement ceiling or an attic. You're looking for those ceramic pieces and for two conductors running along separate paths rather than together inside one jacket. Cloth-jacketed NM cable, which showed up around 1926, is a different thing and is often confused with it.

When it was used

Knob-and-tube was prevalent from the 1880s into the 1940s. Installation continued in places later than that, and it can turn up in post-1940s remodels where someone tapped into an existing run. Cloth-jacketed NM appeared around 1926, and modern plastic-jacketed NM took over roughly between 1950 and 1970.

The practical point: build year narrows the odds, it doesn't settle the question. We've found live knob-and-tube in houses nobody expected it in, and found none in houses everybody assumed had it.

Why so much of Spokane has it

Spokane's housing stock is old by west-coast standards. Using Spokane County Assessor data, the City of Spokane reported in 2020 that about 19% of city housing was built before 1940 and roughly 42% before 1970, with the average single-family home around 70 years old.

That's why this question comes up constantly on the South Hill and in Browne's Addition, where a large share of the housing predates the second world war.

What actually makes it dangerous

Buried in insulation

Knob-and-tube was designed to run through open air, spaced off framing, so heat could dissipate. Blown-in or batt insulation packed over it removes that. This is the single most common way an otherwise stable system becomes a real hazard, and it usually happened during a well-intentioned energy retrofit.

Degraded conductor insulation

The original insulation is cloth and rubber. After eighty or a hundred years it becomes brittle, cracks, and falls off when disturbed. Bare conductor inside a wall cavity is exactly what it sounds like.

Decades of undocumented splices

Almost no house still has original, untouched knob-and-tube. What we usually find is a century of additions: modern cable spliced into old conductors, often outside a box, often taped rather than terminated. The splices are frequently a bigger problem than the original wiring.

No equipment ground

Knob-and-tube is a two-wire system with no ground path. That means no grounded three-slot receptacles, no ground for surge protection, and no ground fault path for modern equipment that expects one.

Modern loads on a pre-war design

The system was designed for lighting and a radio. It was not designed for a kitchen full of countertop appliances, a home office, and space heaters.

Does it actually have to come out?

No, not on its own. If it hasn't been modified, hasn't been added to, and isn't degraded by water or heat, there is no code requiring its removal. It can stay.

New Romex and existing knob-and-tube can also coexist. Running new circuits in a house does not oblige you to tear out what's already there, as long as what's already there is intact and untouched.

Aaron's own position, for what it's worth: if it were his house, he'd replace it. That's an opinion from someone who has opened a lot of these walls, not a code requirement, and we'll still scope your house on what's actually in it.

The real driver is insurance, not code

For most homeowners this decision gets made by an insurance carrier rather than by safety or by code. Some carriers will not write a policy on a house with knob-and-tube at all. Others will, and you can find them; it takes calling around rather than accepting the first no.

What we can't tell you is how the premiums compare. We don't know, and we're not going to guess at it. That's a question for a broker who writes in this market.

If you've received a letter, don't guess at what will satisfy them. Bring it to us with the specific language, and we'll look at what's actually in your house and what would address it.

Lath and plaster is what makes these jobs hard

The wiring isn't usually the difficult part. The walls are. Houses of this age are lath and plaster, and you can't cut it cleanly. It chips, it cracks beyond the cut, and it behaves more like concrete than like drywall.

That's the honest reason South Hill and Browne's Addition rewires cost what they do. Most of the planning on those jobs is about finding paths that don't turn into plaster repair, because the patching is a bigger job than the wiring.

Do you have to replace all of it?

Not always, and not always at once. Plenty of older Spokane homes have knob-and-tube that was abandoned in place decades ago when someone rewired part of the house. Abandoned, de-energized conductors sitting in a wall are not the same problem as live ones.

A realistic scope often looks like: identify what's still energized, de-energize and remove what can be removed, and replace the live circuits, sometimes in phases, prioritizing kitchens, bathrooms, and anything buried in insulation. Sometimes the assessment does come back as a full rewire, and we'll say so plainly when it does.

What replacement involves

Replacement means running new grounded cable to the devices and fixtures on the affected circuits, adding boxes where splices were made outside of them, and terminating everything properly at the panel. Older homes frequently need panel work at the same time: a two-wire system usually came with a service sized for a two-wire era, and grounding and bonding often need correcting.

Full detail on scope, access, and phasing is on our whole-home rewiring page, and the service side is covered on the panel upgrade page. Cost depends on access, how much of the house is finished, how many circuits are live, and whether the service needs to change. We scope it after seeing it, not over the phone.

Talk it through with a licensed electrician

If you'd rather have someone look at it than guess, book a time or call us. We'll tell you what we actually find.

Related questions

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if I have knob-and-tube wiring?+

Look in an unfinished basement or attic for white ceramic knobs holding individual conductors off the framing, and ceramic tubes where a conductor passes through a joist or stud. The two conductors run separately rather than together in one cable, and there is no ground wire. If your basement is finished and your attic is insulated, you may not be able to tell without opening something up.

When was knob-and-tube used?+

It was prevalent from the 1880s into the 1940s, and installation continued in some places later than that. It also turns up in post-1940s remodels where someone extended an existing circuit. Never assume a given house is free of it based on its build year alone. It takes an inspection.

Will my insurance company cancel my policy over knob-and-tube?+

Many carriers will not write or renew a policy on an actively energized knob-and-tube system, and others require an electrician's letter about its condition. Policies vary by carrier. If you have received a letter from your insurer, bring it to us and we'll look at what's actually installed.

Do I have to replace all of it at once?+

Not always. The honest answer is that it depends on how much is still energized and where. Sometimes the right move is a full rewire. Sometimes it's de-energizing abandoned runs and replacing only the circuits still carrying load, in phases. We'd rather scope it accurately than sell you a whole-house rewire you may not need this year.

Can I add insulation in an attic with knob-and-tube?+

Not over energized knob-and-tube. The wiring depends on open air around it to shed heat. If you're planning an insulation project in an older Spokane home, sort out the wiring first. That order saves you from paying twice.

Is knob-and-tube against code?+

Existing installations are generally not required to be torn out simply because they exist. What triggers action is condition, alteration, and the scope of any work you're doing. Washington is on the 2023 NEC with state amendments under RCW 19.28 and WAC 296-46B.

Does knob-and-tube have to be removed?+

Not if it hasn't been modified, hasn't been added to, and isn't degraded by water or heat. There is no code requiring removal, and new Romex and existing knob-and-tube can coexist. The real driver is usually insurance rather than code.

Would you replace it if it were your house?+

Aaron's answer is yes: if it were his house, he'd replace it. That's his position, not a code requirement, and we'll still scope your house honestly rather than assume the answer.

Why do rewires cost more in older Spokane neighborhoods?+

Lath and plaster. You can't cut it cleanly (it behaves more like concrete than drywall), so access takes longer and repair is a bigger job. That's a large part of why South Hill and Browne's Addition rewires cost what they do.